Diamond Education

Diamond clarity describes the presence (or absence) of imperfections within a diamond, known as inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) established the standard clarity scale used today, which ranges from flawless (FL) to included (I3). Here’s a breakdown of the key clarity grades:

• Flawless (FL) & Internally Flawless (IF): Extremely rare diamonds with no visible inclusions or blemishes, even under 10x magnification by a trained grader.

• Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 & VVS2): Contain minuscule inclusions that are very difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.

• Very Slightly Included (VS1 & VS2): Have minor inclusions that may require effort to see under 10x magnification, but are unlikely to affect brilliance.

• Slightly Included (SI1 & SI2): Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification, but some may not be visible to the naked eye. These inclusions might affect brilliance slightly.

• Included (I1, I2, I3): Have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye and can significantly impact brilliance.

When evaluating clarity, gemologists consider factors like:

• Size & Number: Larger or more numerous inclusions lower the grade.
• Nature: Certain inclusions, like clouds or feathers, might be more noticeable than crystals.
• Position: Inclusions near the diamond’s surface or affecting its brilliance have a greater impact.

Here are some additional tips:

• Not all diamonds need to be flawless. For most cuts, inclusions in the SI or VS range won’t be visible to the naked eye and offer a good balance between quality and price.
• Prioritize cut over clarity. A well-cut diamond with a slightly lower clarity grade can still sparkle beautifully.
• Consider the diamond’s shape. Some cuts, like emerald or princess, hide inclusions better than round cuts.

Remember, a diamond grading report from the GIA will provide a detailed assessment of the clarity grade and any specific inclusions present.

Diamond cut, unlike clarity, refers to the way a diamond is shaped and faceted, not its inherent quality. It’s all about how light interacts with the diamond to create brilliance, fire, and scintillation. Here’s a breakdown of diamond cut descriptions:

Cut Quality: This refers to how well a diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish are executed. A well-cut diamond will:

• Maximize brilliance: This is the white light reflecting from the diamond, creating that classic sparkle.
• Exhibit fire: The dispersion of light into a rainbow of colors.
• Have good scintillation: The flashes of light and dark as the diamond moves.

Grading scales for cut quality can vary, but generally include:

• Excellent: The ideal cut, achieving optimal brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
• Very Good: Very close to excellent, offering exceptional beauty.
• Good: A well-cut diamond with good light performance.
• Fair: May have light leakage or unbalanced faceting, impacting brilliance.
• Poor: Light performance is significantly compromised.

Cut Types: There are two main categories of diamond cuts:

• Brilliant Cuts: These feature a triangular or round brilliant faceting pattern designed to maximize brilliance. The most popular example is the round brilliant cut, known for its exceptional sparkle. Other brilliant cuts include princess, oval, and cushion cuts.

• Step Cuts: These cuts prioritize geometric shapes and flat facets, resulting in a hall-of-mirrors effect with a muted sparkle but greater clarity. Popular step cuts include the emerald cut, with its rectangular shape and cropped corners, and the Asscher cut, known for its square or octagonal shape and high clarity.

Choosing a Cut: The best diamond cut depends on your priorities:

• For maximum sparkle: Choose a brilliant cut, particularly the round brilliant.
• For a unique look with good brilliance: Consider princess, oval, or cushion cuts.
• For a larger display of color (important for fancy colored diamonds): Step cuts like emerald or Asscher might be a good choice.
• For a focus on clarity: Step cuts can sometimes hide inclusions better than brilliant cuts.

Remember, cut is often considered the most important C because it directly impacts a diamond’s beauty. Prioritize a well-cut diamond within your budget, even if it means sacrificing slightly on carat weight or clarity.

In the world of diamonds, unlike clarity where fewer imperfections are better, color descriptions focus on the absence of color. Here’s a breakdown of diamond color grades and descriptions:

The GIA Color Scale: The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) established the industry standard for diamond color grading, using a scale ranging from D to Z. This scale prioritizes colorlessness, with D being the highest grade (colorless) and Z representing the lightest yellow or brown hues.

• Colorless (D-F): These diamonds exhibit virtually no color and appear icy white. They are the rarest and most expensive diamonds.

  • D & E: These top grades are virtually indistinguishable from colorless to the naked eye.
  • F: May have a faint trace of color only visible under close inspection by a trained gemologist, usually in a face-down position.

• Near Colorless (G-J): These diamonds have very slight hints of color that are difficult for most people to detect without direct comparison to a colorless stone. They offer a good balance between quality and price.

• Faint (K-M): Diamonds in this range have a slightly noticeable color, with a faint yellow or brown tinge that might be visible to a trained eye under good lighting conditions.

• Very Light (N-R): These diamonds have more prominent color that becomes more apparent. They are still considered white diamonds, but the color may be noticeable when set in white gold or platinum.

• Light (S-Z): Diamonds in this range have light yellow or brown hues that are readily visible. These diamonds are less valuable than higher color grades.

Important points to consider:

• Color perception can be subjective and influenced by lighting conditions.
• The metal setting can also affect how a diamond’s color appears. Yellow gold can enhance warmth in a near colorless diamond, while white gold or platinum might make it appear cooler.
• Cut plays a role in color perception. A well-cut diamond will reflect more light and potentially mask slight color better than a poorly cut diamond.

Making the Choice: The ideal color grade for your diamond depends on your budget and preferences.

• If brilliance and top quality are paramount, prioritize colorless diamonds (D-F).
• For a good balance between quality and affordability, near colorless diamonds (G-J) can be a great option.
• If budget is a major concern, and the color is less important, diamonds in the faint (K-M) range can offer significant savings, especially when set in yellow gold.

Remember, a diamond grading report from a reputable gemologist like the GIA will provide a detailed assessment of the color grade and any color nuances. This information can empower you to make an informed decision that aligns with your priorities and budget.

Unlike the other C’s (cut, clarity, and color), carat doesn’t describe a quality level but rather a measurement. A diamond’s carat weight refers to its weight, with one carat being equal to 200 milligrams. Carat weight is a significant factor in a diamond’s price, as larger diamonds are generally rarer and more expensive.

Here’s how carat weight translates to size:

• General Rule: There’s a correlation between carat weight and a diamond’s diameter, but it’s not a perfect one. Cut can also influence how big a diamond appears. A well-cut diamond with a slightly lower carat weight might look larger than a poorly cut diamond with a higher carat weight.

• Diamond Size Chart (Round Cuts): Keep in mind this is an approximation, and actual sizes can vary slightly based on cut.

  • 0.5 carat: Around 5.2mm in diameter
  • 1 carat: Around 6.5mm in diameter
  • 1.5 carat: Around 7.3mm in diameter
  • 2 carat: Around 8.1mm in diameter

Things to Consider When Choosing Carat Weight:

• Budget: Larger carat weights translate to higher prices. Determine your budget beforehand to narrow down your options.
• Finger Size & Setting: A larger diamond might overwhelm smaller fingers. Consider the setting style as well. A halo setting can create the illusion of a larger diamond.
• Visual Preference: Do you prioritize a larger stone or a higher quality diamond with a smaller carat weight?

Beyond the Basics:

• Carat Weight is Divided into Points: For diamonds under one carat, jewelers might use points instead of carats. One carat is equal to 100 points, so a 0.75 carat diamond would be described as a “75 pointer.“

• Visible Size vs. Actual Weight: Fancy shaped diamonds (princess, oval, etc.) can appear larger or smaller than round diamonds with the same carat weight due to their cut and proportions.

Remember: Carat weight is just one factor to consider. A well-cut diamond with a slightly lower carat weight might be a better choice for your budget and offer more brilliance than a larger, poorly cut diamond. It’s all about finding the balance between size, quality, and your personal preferences.